Argentina Day 2 – On to Salta

From Buenos Aires I’ve made my way to Salta, which is in the northwest part of Argentina. Compared to Buenos Aires, Salta seems small. It sprawls a fair bit though and if you believe Wikipedia, the metro area has over a half million people. Wandering the central part of the city yesterday, I would not have guessed that. The central part of the city is not that many blocks to walk and there were plenty of people around and in the streets but nothing like Buenos Aires.

Technically I’m in the foothills of the Andes here. The altitude of the city is about 3800 feet. My reading had suggested that the rainy season would be over in April and I could expect pleasant weather. Well, we’ll see about that. It’s been mostly overcast since arriving yesterday and the same is true today. It’s not raining at the moment, though it sprinkled a bit yesterday and I’d say good chance for some rain today.

I’m staying at the Kkala Hotel. Click here if you want the English version. Beware, it plays music. Like the place I stayed in Buenos Aires, I found this place via TripAdvisor and what a gem it is. It doesn’t seem like a hotel. It’s in a residential neighborhood and the sign for it is barely noticeable. It looks like the homes in neighborhood – only nicer than most. I’d say it was maybe originally built as a home but then the rooms are very much like nice hotel rooms. Big bathroom/shower area. They refer to it as a ’boutique’ hotel and they’re a member in what is called the BBH or Best Boutique Hotel group. I noticed a plaque on the wall and found their website. Plush livin’.

The hotel sports a pool that would look more inviting if the weather were nicer and some great decks to hang out on. There’s one off the entry/living/lounge area and then one on the 2nd floor just outside the glassed-in breakfast area. I’ll try to get some pics and post them here. I was hanging out writing this with a nice cup of coffee on the 2nd floor deck just a bit ago but it started to sprinkle and the computer’s not too fond of that.

Walking through the city yesterday it’s not unlike Buenos Aires in the sense that much of the city seems to be enduring some amount of neglect. Whether it’s the economy over the years, I don’t know. It just seems like the cities have seen better times. With significant income inequality, I wonder if this is what America will look like in time.

There was a market going on along the main street yesterday. It stretched maybe 4 blocks. Lots and what appeared to be handmade goods like jewelery, wood bowls, clothes, artwork, and those sorts of things. Limited crowd of people on the streets. Not crowded by any means. The innkeeper today tells me this is only on Sundays. It’ll be business as usual down there today.

Logistics and Getting Here

Flying domestic within Argentina took me back to a pre-TSA era of security screening. No xray body scanning, no 3-1-1, no ‘take out your computer’, no ‘take off your shoes’. You put your bag through an xray and you walk through a metal detector. That’s it. The line was 20 minutes long but it was otherwise moving quickly. They just had too many people for only 3 metal detectors/bag scanners.

I flew LAN. Standard issue wide body 737. 3 rows each side. Cleaner than most US planes. They bussed us out to the plane in waves and we loaded on the tarmac – from both the front and rear doors. I think they have more flights than they have gates. No extra charge for luggage. No extra charge for the in flight snack – which was a nice little box that included a bag of water crackers, a bag of 3 chocolate wafer biscuit’y things, and something else chocolatey that I just tossed in my bag for later. The entire flight they seemed to have one TV channel playing on the overhead video. It was some kind of ‘candid camera’ type show. It seemed odd that was the one choice they would have picked.

The Salta airport is pretty small. The baggage area had 2 small conveyors that moved at a glacial pace and squealed like it could use some oil. At the 3rd unloading, my bag appeared. Yea!

The taxi ride in was an adventure. The driver had never heard of my hotel and did not know the street name. I showed him google maps on my iphone but he was having trouble with that. He spoke only Spanish. I speak only English… so he aimed it into the city. We went to the central part of the city and he pulled up to a small store and went in to ask directions. In all we stopped 4 times to consult with locals. The iphone and google maps is the only reason I got here. I was navigating from the back seat and we took several wrong turns. We even drove by the place once and completely missed it. Finally as we were shrugging our shoulders and creeping along at 1mph I noticed the Kkala sign on the wall of the building. It blends right in. Success!

Argentina: Day 1 – Buenos Aires

Miravida Soho
Dona Ascension
Don Julio Grill
Don Julio Parilla

On Day 1 of my trip to Argentina, I didn’t have a lot of expectations based on past experience. So in that respect, it’s been a good first day – and a half. Good in the sense that it provided just the sort of distractions I like to find when I get away to a distant place – people, place, language, food, wine. In other words, so far so good.

Buenos Aires

It’s hard for me to generalize much about Buenos Aires considering how little time I’ve spent here and plan to spend. It was a waypoint but I’m glad I stopped in for a day. I wouldn’t mind exploring more. I didn’t do too much touristy. The boutique hotel I’d found online is just the sort of place I like to find. Central and within walking distance to interesting sights it has only 6 rooms. Quiet, clean, comfortable and place with some interesting character. Bonus: wine bar downstairs with some nice choices and a sommelier, Kevin, that calls New York home and spoke English so he could explain the choices on hand. It seems as if he’s lived in a lot of places – including Austin for a bit. Now he lives here.

I spent most of the day just wandering through the streets of the city with the hotel in the Palermo Soho region of the city as home base. This website I ran across: has a good write-up on Palermo Soho. You do find all the shopping and restaurants and night spots pointed out there but I’d say that’s pretty much a chamber of commerce write-up. The neighborhood and in fact all the areas I walked, including a close to 3 hour trek out and back to Recoleta, reflected a well-worn city. Graffiti graces the walls of most blocks, some trash piled at corners, litter. You’ll find that sort of thing in any major urban city of course but most travel write-ups only talk about the restaurants and the shopping but there’s plenty of the other to go around. New Orleans came to mind. Very cool place to visit, but a little frayed around the edges.

Plenty of the usual American retail influences here. McDonalds, Starbucks and I even saw a little girl on the street with her mom (maybe 3 years old?) wearing a shirt with a Walmart logo on it.

Food & Wine

Food alone would be reason enough to hang around in the city for more days. There are so many choices. Aside from a lunchtime empanada snack (that wasn’t anything to write home about) I only got to enjoy the wine bar at the hotel and one meal. Both were great though.

I tried two wines from the region where I’m headed: Salta. One was a Torrontes from the Colome’ bodega. Crisp, light, floral and dry. Then I tried another Salta wine that was a blend of Malbec and Cabernet. Ascension from Bodega Tacuil. Definitely out of the ordinary. A little on the vegatal side but not necessarily in a bad way.

The woman at the front desk recommended a popular parillia for dinner because it’s so typically Argentine. A good write-up here of Parilla. I went to Don Julio’s about 4 blocks from the hotel. Casual, comfortable and friendly attentive staff. The open grill in the kitchen area looked and smelled great. I got a good view because my table was right up next to it. Lots of meat choices here. I ended up selecting some beef ribs. Not quite like Texas BBQ in flavor but really, really good. I started with a ‘grilled cheese with tomatoes, basil and olive oil.’ Not grilled cheese like a sandwich. Grilled cheese like you put the whole wad of cheese on the grill and cook it. Definitely awesome. No idea how they keep it from getting to be one big gooey mess. Clearly the right choice of cheese for this would have to be important but I don’t know what it is.

Logistics

The flight from Austin to Buenos Aires is like any other long international flight. Between ‘coach’ class tickets and the TSA, it’s an experience to be endured. But to be specific, the flight from Houston takes about 9 and a half hours. They’re ahead of Houston by 2 hours so you leave at 9pm and arrive around 9:30 am local time the next morning. The flight was booked solid and thank God I managed to book an aisle seat. Otherwise, flights were mercifully on time and event free.

Having just recently traveled to Montreal, it was interesting to compare the two experiences. The customs and declarations forms experience is illustrative. In Canada and the US you get a form that appears to be printed on a stock that at least seems like an official state document. The two forms you get for Argentina appear to have been run off on a mimeograph machine. I was wondering if the airline had photocopied them.

If you’re from the US, Canada or Australia you get in a special line when you go through customs. You must pay the ‘reciprocity fee’ first. The fee is essentially because apparently turnabout is fair play. We have similar fees for Visas apparently so consequently, as an American you pay US$140 to enter the country. The pass you get is pasted into your passport and it lasts for 10 years so if you go back in that time, you don’t pay again.

Aside from that, getting through customs was no problem and the lines on a Saturday morning at least were short. Luggage was there as expected and I was through the whole thing in a jiffy.

I typically get the local currency out of an ATM once I’m through the other side and this was no exception. Except, the ATM in this case was within a separate glassed-in booth of sorts that could only be accessed by swiping your card in advance. I hadn’t seen that before. A security feature I’m sure. Later I saw the same technique used in the city.

I bellied up to the “Official Taxi” bar just outside of customs and ordered up a ride into the city. AR$198 (Pesos) fixed fee to anywhere in the city from the airport. That’s about US$45. There are no doubt cheaper ways into the city but comfort was a factor. I wanted to check in asap. We drove what I can only guess was about 45 minutes through and into the city to get to my hotel in Palermo Soho. As we got closer to the city from the airport, traffic got heavy. We went throught several toll booths and the rest was winding through crowded city streets. The painted lanes are apparently only a suggestion. Rolling stop the rule unless there’s actually a red light.

Squeegee Men and jugglers appear to be popular ways for people to squeeze money out of passing drivers. They come out when the light turns red and either perform or clean your window. The one juggler I saw on a unicycle was actually pretty good.

Off to Salta…

A Visit to New Orleans

Jackson Square
Washboard Chaz Blues Trio

Kem had business to do in New Orleans that lasted most of the week after Thanksgiving. Seemed like it would make a great time to meet up with her at the end of the week and take in the sights in New Orleans. Hadn’t been there for years and when I had, it was certainly long before Katrina created havoc there in 2005.

For me, going to New Orleans is largely about the food, the music and finding interesting art and galleries. We found plenty of all of that. On Friday, we ended up going to dinner at Coop’s Place. It came recommeded. Billed as ‘Where the not so elite meet to eat’ by Zagat, it’s not a fancy place but has New Orleans staples like Jambalaya and Gumbo. I had the ‘Jambalaya Supreme‘. Tasty. The place was definitely popular. We probably had a 20 min+ wait, queued up outdoors with several other people. From there it was a short walk back over to Frenchman Street. Multiple locals had steered us over to this area and we found music up and down the street. We’d originally attempted to do dinner at the Three Muses but a band was about to start and the place was jammed. But we headed back over that way after dinner at Coop’s. We pulled in first to “d.b.a” and listened to a little of The Hot Club of New Orleans. These guys do swing music. Fun to listen to but they were just finishing their set and it didn’t last long. So, we wandered right across the street to The Spotted Cat Music Club. Here we found the Washboard Chaz Blues Trio playing. Click thru to listen to some music. We stuck around there for awhile. You can see a picture of the trio in the photos here.

On Saturday, we tooled around the French Quarter on a couple cruiser bikes the B&B we were staying at allowed us to borrow. It’s a great way to get around the Quarter. First stop was Jackson Square. That’s me in the pic at the park at Jackson Square with St Louis cathedral in the background. We locked the bikes and wandered around the square. There are artists that show their stuff all around the square.

Ordinarily it’s fun to stop in to Cafe Du Monde for some coffee and beignets when you’re at Jackson Square but the line of people waiting was outrageous. Instead, we found a really great alternative on Royal street at Cafe Beignet. The nice thing here was there was a cello player that had found a spot on the sidewalk just outside the cafe and he was really pretty good.

For several hours after that, we wandered up and down the streets of the Quarter but spent most of our time on Royal Street. There are lots of galleries to pull into on Royal. All kinds. Painting, photography, sculpture… all kinds of stuff. Kem found a framed photo she liked and while we looked around at other places that day, we eventually returned on Sunday to get it.

After wandering around for a few hours, we had been told about an interesting wine shop and also a BBQ place out in Bywater. So, we mounted the cruisers and took the bikes for a longer ride out to there. The wine shop, Bacchanal, was having a wine tasting at 3 and we were a little early for that so we went up the street a couple blocks and hit the BBQ place called the Joint. Totally a hole in the wall. For 2:15 in the afternoon, the place was still jammed though. Obviously popular. I’d hoped to try the brisket but unfortunately they were out of that. So I got the pulled pork and ribs. Wow! Fantastic BBQ. Check this place out if you get to New Orleans. We did eventually get back to the wine tasting. Nice folks and casual place. They had the LSU game on at the tasting.

As Kem said, we were eating our way across New Orleans and we weren’t finished. Later that evening the BBQ was wearing off and we couldn’t help seeking out another recommended place called The Green Goddess. This place was down a little alley and had some very funky choices. Honestly, we weren’t terribly hungry, so we just opted for the chef’s choice cheese board and I got the ‘wedge salad’. Interesting cheeses, and some good wine choices to go along. The salad – with green goddess dressing of course – was excellent. (We liked this place so much we went back again for lunch the next day.)

The next day we spent more time on the bikes and headed toward Audubon park. Kind of a long trek out there on cruiser bikes but it was still a fun way to spend the time. Later we pulled into a very cool gallery called the Big Bunny Fine Art gallery. The artist there, Steve Lohman, was a really personable guy and he chatted with us for awhile. He does some fairly large sized metal/wire sculptures. But, he’ll also do similar sculptures just using copper wire. We especially liked the one he did of the ‘bike lady‘ and he offered to do both a man and a woman on bikes. He did them in about 30 minutes! Both small enough to go in a cigar box and with us back on the plane.

Awesome BBQ at The Joint

The 2010 Great Get-Away – Begins in Sonoma County

Though I’ve previously posted about our stay in Guerneville, I’m finally getting around to posting a few more notes about the trip I’m calling the “Great Get-Away” for 2010. The trip started with Kem and I heading to the Sonoma area with friends Jim and ML and hanging out for a long weekend in the hills above the Russian River. From that home base, we ranged down to Tomales for the Holestein 100 bike tour and up to Healdsburg and the Santa Rosa area for wine.

The house we rented was pretty nice. In addition to the view we couldn’t get enough of, you can see a shot of the back side and patio/pool in the post here. If you look close you’re see Kem lounging by the pool.

The picture of the wine was from Oakville grocery in Healdsburg. We stopped in there for a midday lunch. They make great sandwiches there. It’s right on the square in Healdsburg. It was well over 90 degrees that day and the rose wine hit the spot.

The other picture is another of the hills above the Russian River in Guerneville. We were blessed with some really great weather while we were there – as well as a full moon. I took this picture one evening from the deck of the house we rented.

Meanwhile, there was plenty of wine tasting nearby. I didn’t take the best notes in the world, but I still formed a few opinions based on the places we visited. You’ll find a few such thoughts below:

Porter Creek Porter Creek was the first place we visited for no other reason than it was one of the first up Westside road that we happened upon. That and it looked so quaint. It’s a very small place. There’s a cute little house surrounded by flowers and around the side is a very small tasting room. Maybe because it was the first we tasted I wasn’t blown away by the wines, but I do remember the Zin being excellent.
Thomas George A little bit further up Westside Rd we found Thomas George. This winery was a fair bit more upscale than the much smaller Porter Creek. Tasting are in a big wine cave. I was a big fan of their Viognier and we returned here on the way back to the house to pick one up.
Hop Kiln Hop Kiln was interesting not just for the old building they do the tastings, but also for all the other things you could taste in addition to the wine. There were mustards, oils and vinegars and someone was making and handing out samples of a chicken salad dish that was great. Unfortunately, I don’t remember anything remarkable about the wines. Maybe it’s because I was too busy tasting everything else.
Alderbrook Alderbrook had some tasty Zins.
Harvest Moon Harvest Moon had some of my favs of the trip. We ended up getting the Russian River Zin and a Cabernet that we later enjoyed at the rental house.
Hook & Ladder These wines are from the folks that used to make wines under the De Loach label. Small, family run, the name comes from the fact Cecil used to be a San Francisco firefighter in 1970. Wines were good and prices much better than most we tried in the area.
Ledson Ledson is what I call a Disneyland winery. It’s very showy and there’s something artificially showy about it. Tastings (and clearly other events) are done in the Ledson castle. Tastings are correspondingly expensive. $15 for 6 wines, $20 for 9 wines. We opted to pass on the tasting. They do, however, have a great market right in the castle and they make some great sandwiches. We had a picnic under the trees on the park-like grounds. Don’t bring your own picnic basket of food though, you can only eat food there that you buy there. If you bring your own food or wine the very visible security staff is liable to throw you off the property.
Matanzas Creek Matanzas Creek was probably my favorite of the bunch we tried. In some ways this place is probably just as upscale as Ledson but they’ve really done a nice job with the property. The lavendar fields that surround the place are not just for show. They actually harvest the stuff. It smelled great as we wandered around their garden. All the wines I tried were great. Not to be overlooked at this place was the fact that the guy helping us with tastings was very knowledable and friendly. I even remember his name: Ira. He really knew their wines and the area. In fact, I googled for Ira at Matanzas Creek and sure enough, I’m not the first person to notice how helpful Ira was. Don’t miss Matanzas Creek.

A Visit to Northern California

We’ve spent a fun long weekend in the Guerneville area. I took a number of interesting photos along the way but we spent so much time enjoying this view from the deck/windows of the home we’ve been staying in that it seemed the most appropriate to post. I took this one only minutes ago while enjoying my morning coffee. It’s perfectly still this morning without a cloud in the sky and if you look close you’ll see the trees reflected in the Russian River far below.

The last couple of days have seen clear mornings like this although the first couple mornings were socked in with fog as thick as pea soup. Afternoons and evening have be sunny and clear and we were treated to a full moon last night that we watched rise above the trees. I’ll be sure to include a shot of that in a later post.

Morning in Guerneville, CA

Oregon, part 3 – Wine in the Willamette Valley (Lange, Domaine Drouhin, Panther Creek)

Domaine Drouhin 2006 Pinot Noir

The whirlwind trip to Oregon would not have been complete without a stopover in the wine country south of Portland. It’s hard not to enjoy an afternoon in and around the Dundee hills tasting wines. I’d been up there a couple times before and this particular visit didn’t disappoint. On top of the weather being outstanding it was my birthday the day we were visiting – both good reasons to raise a glass.

We just had an afternoon to sample the area so we opted to essentially stay pretty close to just one area around Dundee. First stop was to Lange winery. Lange is a pretty drive out into the hills off the main road and down several miles of gravel road. It’s a fairly small winery and tasting room but has a nice deck and view out the back. It would have been a nice place to picnic but we hadn’t seen an obvious place to stop for food on the way through Dundee. But we asked our very helpful server and she gave us some great suggestions. In fact, she suggested several other great wineries in the area not to be missed as well as great dinner places. She didn’t steer us wrong.

The wines at Lange were excellent. We were particularly wowed by the 2006 “Freedom Hill Vineyard” Pinot Noir. Kem got a bottle of that.

From Lange it was off to pick up some sandwiches and then we headed over to Domaine Drouhin. More excellent wines. In particular we had an excellent 2006 Pinot Noir. We didn’t get a bottle there but Kem has since found it here in Austin. The views from the deck were great at Domaine Drouhin and many of the pictures in the slideshow are from there. We hung out a bit, enjoyed lunch and some of the excellent wine.

Our pace was relaxed and there wasn’t actually a lot of time to take in too many other wineries. We’d heard good things about Panther Creek and it was only a few blocks from where we were going to be staying so we headed that direction. Panther Creek is located in the former power plant in McMinnville. Once again, we were impressed with the wines and found their 2006 wine from Freedom Hills was our favorite. We’ve since found it here in Austin too.

The place we stayed in McMinnville was called A’ Tuscan Estate. I’d highly recommend it. It seems perhaps a little oddly named considering the location, decor and the fact that neither of the innkeepers is from Italy. But it’s a beautiful home and the food was excellent! You can read a bit more about the innkeepers here. They had a very interesting history. Jacques, the chef, is from France and has written culinary books and won awards. Kem bought one of his books and had him sign it. On top of that the two of them were very friendly and helpful. Breakfast on the porch that morning could not have been much better. Fresh made croissants, home made preserves and quiche. Their little pooch, Pololo, shown in the picture at the link above was definitely around the B&B too but he seemed to be tired and resting most of the time.

The visit to the Willamette Valley was too short. Would have been fun to be around another day or two. There are a lot of wineries in the area. We just scratched the surface. No doubt another trip will need to be planned.

Vodpod videos no longer available.

Trip to Oregon, part 2

Chas in Bend, OR

The trip to Oregon in August had three components to it. The first was a stopover at Mt Hood, the 2nd was in Bend and the 3rd was a visit to the Willamette valley south of Portland. We spent a couple days in Bend. This is the second time I’ve been to Bend and each time I’ve been fortunate to go when the weather was close to ideal.

There’s something that just seems to suit me about Bend. Part of it’s the beauty of the area around Bend of course: mountains, lakes, streams, trees. There’s great hiking and biking to be had in and around the area. There’s also a small town feel to the place and yet some big city amenities like interesting restaurants, markets and shops.

The picture of me off to the right was taken by Kem as we wandered through Drake park near the center of town. The Picasa slide show below is of various points along a hike we did at Tumalo Falls. Tumalo Falls is west of Bend a short drive and in part of the Deschutes National Forest. The hike was around 7 miles and took us along Tumalo Creek. The parking lot and trail starts within view of Tumalo Falls – the largest and first falls shown in the pictures – but along the trail there were easily a half dozen more falls along the stream.

We were well past half way on the hike when the trail just seemed to stop. We backtracked a ways to see if maybe we’d just missed a turn. Nope, so we turned back again. The trail just seemed to end at this rather sizable creek. At least it seemed sizable enough that we didn’t feel like wading across it. As we looked more closely, sure enough, the trail proceeded on the other side. In fact, someone had even carved a big arrow into a fallen log that pointed across to the other side. The only way over seemed to require making our way over a fallen tree that was over the creek, but doing so meant first getting to and then climbing over the tree’s sizable root ball. Hmm, maybe not. We wandered a bit further up the creek and found another fallen log. Thankfully this one was a bit easier to climb up on and get across. Our big adventure on an otherwise easy and beautiful hike.

Vodpod videos no longer available.

A Short Visit to Oregon, part 1

We’re enjoying coffee on the porch of the Hillside Inn in Bend this morning. 53 degrees. We’re loving it. A welcome change to the heatwave we’ve been enduring in Austin.

We flew in to Portland on Thurs and spent the afternoon out on Mt Hood. We drove up to Timberline Lodge and hiked a small portion of the Pacific Crest trail. It’s right at the tree line starting just above the Lodge. Above us further still there was snow, though not much. ‘Down’ at the tree line where we were at it was warm and dry, and there were lots of flowers. All along the trail we walked there were tons of what my searching would suggest are “Subalpine Lupines”. I could be wrong of course. There seems to be hundreds of different types of Lupines and they all look very similar. (The Texas Bluebonnet is a type of Lupine too, and these flowers were reminiscent of Bluebonnets though the scent is completely different.)

After hiking, we returned to the Brightwood Guest House B&B. Bonnie and Jeff were the friendly hosts there and they have a small guest house next to their own home. It was situated next to a creek with all the amentities of home and then some. The evening air was good for lighting the firewood in what I guess you would call a fire pit though it was more like a portable outdoor fireplace. We hung out for awhile by the fire and were joined by Bonnie and Jeff. Their friendly and very fluffy cat Hoi decided to join us too. Their two dogs were apparently busy elsewhere.

The breakfast the next morning – which was brought out to our guest house kitchette – was excellent! There was coffee, fresh fruit, an egg scramble, hash browns, some interesting vegetarian sausage patties – and blueberry pancakes. Wow! Needless to say we did not go hungry!

Mt Hood Lupine

Reflections on Oahu

Na Hoku II

We’re back in Austin now and have some great memories and fading tans. Before my memory fades too much, thought I’d jot down a few more notes on our trip to Oahu. It helps to have a bunch of pictures to look back on, and some local art as well.

The picture of the sailboat here is of the Na Hoku II. It was one of the funnest sails we had while we were there. The crew was a lot of fun and we happened to catch pretty good winds and the ride was a bit of a roller coaster. I’d definitely recommend looking for them. It’s the only big yellow sailboat on Waikiki. You can’t miss it. Hour long sails were $20 bucks. If you wanted bottomless cocktails too, $25. We tried to sail again with them on Monday but although they indicate they do a 9:30 sail they needed at least 10 people. We chose another boat instead on Monday. Monday’s are apparently known as “blue Mondays” by the sailboat folks on the beach. They don’t have near the volume of customers on Mondays.

The other picture below is of Sunset beach up on the North Shore. We got up early one morning and beat the traffic so it didn’t take but an hour to get up there. This time of year the surf is pretty quiet up there but in the winter it can apparently get pretty wild. Unlike Waikiki Beach, Sunset beach was really pretty quiet. More people started showing up mid day, but as you can see from the picture, when I took it there was almost no one on the beach.

Among the artwork I mentioned I came home with is a piece of art glass by a woman named Marian Fieldson. On several trips in recent years I’ve managed to find at least one piece of glasswork that I’ve found interesting. Check out the link here to get a sense of what the piece I got is like. It’s not exactly the same as that, but sorta similar.

When to Go, and the Crowds

Given this was my first trip to Oahu (other than flying in and out of Honolulu years ago) I can’t really say with first hand experience that May is any better than any other month to go to Oahu, but we had both read and were told as much by folks that live there. Apparently the crowds are down somewhat in May because it’s not considered high season and we were also told the bad economy in general was having a detrimental impact. From my point of view, I found that hard to believe. The plane out was a full flight and everywhere we went there were lots of people. The restaurants had plenty of people and the beaches and resorts seemed to be full of people. The streets of the Waikiki area were teeming with people night and day. The high end retail (Tiffany’s, Chanel, … ) seemed to be doing as well as the T-shirt shops.

If the crowds were considered ‘down’, then wow. In general, Honolulu and Waikiki are crowded. Lots of traffic! The traffic never seemed to end. If you’re looking for a quiet place, you can find it on Oahu, but it’s not in Honolulu. Not that it was unbearable. It was fine and we enjoyed our time, but you need to go to the windward or north shore if you’re looking for quiet.

Favorite Oahu Restaurants

Generally we had some pretty good food on the island. More than a few people told us we had to go to Duke’s – even our waitress at the Sheraton, and Duke’s is not in the Sheraton. The food here was excellent. Like many of the places in Waikiki, they did the ‘really big salad bar’, but this was really a much better than average salad bar. The entree was made to order though and they had some great fresh fish. Kem tried the swordfish and I had the Ono. Both were excellent.

We also loved a place called Plumeria’s at the Kahala resort hotel. Had it not been recommended by Jeff (local) we would very likely have never found this place. It was a nice drive out past Diamond Head. One of the nice things about this place was the grounds. They had dolphins(!) in big ponds on the grounds that were facinating to watch. They also had big sea turtles and exotic fish swimming around. The restaurant was open air and we sat outside a stone’s throw from the ocean. It didn’t hurt that there was a full moon (or close to it) that night rising over the ocean. Quite impressive. I had the mahi mahi. Kem had the Ahi tuna. Again, both excellent.

Another place we really liked was up on the north shore, called Ted’s Bakery. It doesn’t look like much, but the crowds were a signal that it must be pretty good so we walked over from Sunset beach. (It’s just a short walk.) We were not disappointed. I had the mahi mahi sandwich. Mmm, very good. Kem had the garlic shrimp and she loved it.

One final place worth mentioning was over in Kailua (on the windward side of the island). We drove over to Kailua beach one day and when we got hungry we found our way to a little market along the road called the Kalapawai Market. Turns out they had a great little deli in the back. They made some fantastic sandwiches.

Renting a car on Oahu

Would I rent a car again on Oahu? Yeah, probably. You can’t really get to the windward side or north shore without one. I suppose there are buses that would take you, but if you’re short on time, the logistics of that aren’t great. But if you’re spending most of your time in Waikiki, you don’t need a car. You can walk to pretty much everything you’re going to want to. And if you’ve got a car, you’ve got to find a place to park the darned thing. Our hotel was charging $18 a day to park. I’d probably look into renting on a daily basis as opposed to the entire duration of the trip. Daily rates are probably higher than the weekly rate and in the end I’m not sure it would save any money. Whatever is the least hassle.

Overall

I’d definitely return to Oahu. We really enjoyed our time – other than the traffic, which is really no worse than any other major city – and I think we saw only a small fraction of the things we could have. We’ll just have to go back… oh, but then there are all those other islands there we haven’t seen!

Sunset beach

More Beaches and Great Food

Kem at Duke's

Kailua Beach

We headed over to the windward side of the island and Kailua Bay. There we found a fantastic beach to while away the time on yet another beautiful day here on Oahu. Later we headed to a place multiple people had recommended for dinner and music, Duke’s. Duke’s is named after a famous Hawaiian that was a champion swimmer in the early 1900’s and was generally considered the person who popularized modern surfing. I’m not usually much for buffet style but this was really good food, and the fish was fresh and made to order. I took the picture of Kem at Duke’s.

Waikiki Beach – Fun in the Sun

The Maitai on Waikiki
Chas with Mimosa

Yesterday was all about having some fun in the sun. Kem had made some reservations to do some sailing/snorkeling mid morning. We got a leisurely start and eventually made our way down to Waikiki beach. There are a bunch of catamaran sail boats that leave directly from the beach. No docks, they just come to a stop on the beach and tie down to a stake in the sand. We got down to the beach and thought we had found the right boat. We even got on and were headed out and only then realized we were on the wrong boat! We could see the one we were supposed to be on coming in for a landing. So they turned around and unloaded us and we got on the ‘right’ boat. The funny thing was though the boats were very similar and ours ended up going out and anchoring (for snorkeling) right next to the one we’d just gotten off. Basically they offered the same service. You can see the Maitai before we headed off in the picture here. The sailing off the coast was a blast.

Later we just parked it on the beach for awhile. We hadn’t really seen much of Waikiki beach so we wandered down the coast a bit. Waikiki beach is sort of like Rodeo Drive and Las Vegas rolled together next to the beach. It’s jammed wall to wall with high rise hotels and high end retail. Not surpisingly we took in the sights but didn’t really do much in the way of ‘shopping’. We just unrolled the beach towels and joined the folks on the beach. Warm, but lovely breezes so not too hot. Water was a great temp so easy to cool off when you wanted.

Later we wandered down the beach to a shady resort hotel and ordered some lunch and as you can see in the picture, a couple of drinks. In the picture here I’m holding up the Mimosa that Kem had ordered. My smirk here is just part of the laughing at the too-cuteness of the umbrella and flower in the drink.

Later we decided we hadn’t had enough sailing yet and hooked up with an impromptu ride with another hourly boat tour operator. They too were sailing a big catamaran. This time though we got out on the netting up front and really enjoyed the waves. Some splashing but we actually thought we’d get a lot wetter. Quite the roller coaster ride.

Today, probably another visit to the beach…

Aloha

Chas & Kem arrive in Honolulu
Kem on the beach

We’ve arrived in Honolulu! It was a long flight from Houston and we were definitely happy to be off the plane. Kem’s mom had prearranged for us to have a greating and receive the beautiful leis you see us wearing in the photo.

The flight was more than a little disconcerting. About 4 hours out – over nothing but water and hours left to go – everyone began to smell some sickening burning electical fumes. Something electrical was definitely burning and the smell was getting worse. The flight attendants started coming up the aisles shouting to check all laptops and anything electrical. Needless to say it was a little tense there for a bit high above the ocean. Eventually the air cleared and after what seemed like a long time the captain came on and announced a recirculating fan had burned out. They had “contained” it. Um, yeah. We white-knuckled it for the rest of the trip and hence the big smiles in the picture. Glad to be on the ground.

The hotel’s nothing special but we figured we wouldn’t really be around there much anyway.

We spent the rest of what was left of the day down wandering the beach and hanging out at a resort lounge by the ocean. Just enjoying some tasty snacks and a nice glass of wine. The time change had us exhausted early so we crashed by 9. More later…

A Visit to San Antonio

Casa Rio

Kem and I did a short road trip recently down to San Antonio. It made for a nice change of pace. While it’s relatively close by, San Antonio always seems to deliver a little bit of feeling a world away too. We whiled away the time wandering through the King William District and ogling the restored old homes.

Right next door – or maybe it’s considered part of – the King William District was the Blue Star Arts complex. Most of the shops/galleries featured contemporary art. Some I might qualify as a little on the edgier side. The Bettie Ward exhibit of embroidery (entitled “Optimism and Horror”) at the Blue Star Contemporary Art center would certainly qualify.

Later we poked around the galleries and shops of La Villita. La Villita is just up the stairs and right off the River Walk so is a tad bit more touristy than the Blue Star complex. Some really nice stuff though. We found a little watercolor there at a placed called “The River Art Group” that we both liked by a woman named Joyce Sweet. Kem got it for me – what a nice gift!

The picture here is my own snapshot rendition of the painting done by Joyce Sweet. It’s of a place on the River Walk called Casa Rio. I over saturated the colors a bit on purpose to give it a similar sort of feel to the painting. You’ll just have to come visit to the see the actual painting.

Cycling up Alpe d’huez!

Chas and Chris finish Alpe d'huez

From Spain it was on to Grenoble, France. Beth & family have moved there for work and as long as I’d made the trip this far, might as well pay a visit, right? So from Barcelona it was on to Lyon by plane and then a fast TGV train ride down to Grenoble.

One of the ideas that Kem and I had when we originally planned the trip earlier in the year was the lofty idea that since we’d be in Grenoble and it wasn’t too far away, we too could try our hand at riding up Alpe d’huez. The fabled stage of the Tour de France that climbs at about 8% grade for 14K over 21 switchbacks has become something of a mecca for bicyclists. Something to test your mettle. There’s a great picture of the route up the mountain here.

My cold/sniffles had begun to subside enough that the semi-thought out idea of riding up Alpe d’huez during the week I was in Grenoble could perhaps take place. Chris was taking the day off on Wednesday and it would all depend on the weather and how I felt come Wednesday morning. Things aligned well and the opportunity presented itself. The weather was fantastic come Wednesday morning and I was feeling pretty good. Chris was up for giving it a try and now all we needed was to figure out how to get there and get the bikes there. Chris had a bike rack for the top of his car but had yet to set it up so he got busy.

Meanwhile, I needed to reassemble my bike. It had been all boxed up for the trip from Barcelona. That took an hour or so. By mid day Chris had gotten the bike rack all assembled and on the car. We were off. Did we really know what we were doing? We had no idea.

Chris figured out how to get there and snaked us up the valley to find the base of the mountain. We just parked along the side of the road. We saw a few other cars there and figured it was OK. As it turns out there was another rider just taking off. His wife or girl friend was taking pictures and off he went. We took a few pictures at the base too. Then we headed up.

Unless you ride up the valley some beforehand, there’s not really any warm up involved. Rather, you round a bend and there it is, the ascent begins. The road surface is littered with names painted on it. There’s stuff painted from start to finish. No doubt a lot of folks as well as pros do this ride.

We knew it’d be chilly at the top so we brought backpacks with extra stuff to wear for the descent later. (We were optimistic we’d make it to the top.) I wore tights and on the way up they probably weren’t necessary. It was a sunny day and while not hot, the exertion alone warmed us to the point where we didn’t need a lot of clothing.

It goes without saying that you need to be pretty fit to do the ride up to the top. But you don’t have to be Lance Armstrong to do the ride. That is, as long as you don’t really care how long it takes and you’ve got a decent bike with the right gearing. I geared things such that I was just on the edge of being winded and hunkered down for the climb. We stopped a couple times to gawk at the view and take some pictures – it’s very pretty – and otherwise just crawled up at a steady pace. We were there in something around 1:45 min. Not exactly speedy but then we weren’t racing and by the time we’d warmed up and got into a rhythm, it was just a fun ride.

Near the top we encountered a professional photographer that was taking pictures of us tourists making the trek up. He’d hand you a card and if you want you can buy the photos he took.

At the top we got another couple riders that were doing the same thing to take our picture. Funny thing was one of them was from Colorado, one from Utah. Like I say, a mecca for cyclists.

We didn’t hang around too long. It was in fact chilly up there and we were cooling off fast. We got the extra stuff on from our back packs and headed down. We encountered several more people – several with similar jerseys that appeared to be from Japan – that were making the ascent. The ride down is quite a rush. The grade on the way up is consistent enough that at some point it doesn’t seem that steep. But on the way down, for some reason it seems steeper. Kinda like when you’re skiing and you head down that first run of the day. It seems kinda steep, right? Anyway, you need to be on the brakes a LOT on the way down. Those switchbacks come up fast.

There was a lot more traffic on the road than I expected there would be. There’s a lot more populated places on the route and at the top than I would have thought there would be. It’s a pretty big ski resort up there. Anyway, you really need to keep to the right. Going up it wasn’t that much of an issue. Going down it was more interesting ’cause you’re going MUCH faster.

So, would I recommend the ride? Absolutely. If you get the chance, take it and make the ascent.

Alpe d'huez

Last Day: Another Girona Loop

The guys in Osor

Our last day of riding was a tough one. Not that the ride was that tough, but my cold was in full swing. Jill referred to it as “The Grip” and that was a pretty accurate name. I brought up the rear since I was sneezing and otherwise honking my sinus juices across the countryside.

The route was to be a loop ride – from Girona out to Osor and then back. To Osor was to be about 45K. The van would be in Osor though and as we mounted up for the ride I was pretty sure I’d take the van ride back.

The ride up to Osor was quite a nice one despite my cold. A couple of climbs, the longest being the one up to Osor, but very pretty and heavily wooded country. The last part of the route up to Osor snaked up alongside the Riera d’Osor. In otherwords, a little river.

We snacked on a picnic lunch up at Osor and then I vanned back. Later others would say they wished they joined me only because the route out in the morning was the prettiest part and the afternoon added nothing.

Note the picture of the guys in Osor. I’m dressed as if it’s winter. Not sure if I had a fever or not but definitely was feeling some chills. My hair’s all out of whack. I manage to plaster on a smile for the camera. Would you guess the two big guys here used to play some college football? You’d guess right.

I managed a nap later in the afternoon but I wanted to join everyone for the final dinner out. I’m glad I did. We met for drinks for a bit and then went to a wine bar and had ‘pica pica’ (a little of this a little of that) for dinner. We started with some Cava (Spain’s sparkling wine) and then salads and then some meat dishes, one after the other. A really nice red wine named Tinta Fina of cabernet and merlot and by Valtravieso was served. It came from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain.

We all managed to clean up pretty good for our last dinner out. Here’s a picture of the group. That’s me on the right. You wouldn’t guess I was all that sick in this case but I think the meds were kicking in.

Note that Marty Jemison had joined us for dinner. He’s the namesake of the tour company and was back from the custom tour that had been going on concurrently. It was great to meet him. Was a really nice guy. He’s the guy 2nd from the back on the right side of the picture.

Dinner in Girona